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Trip Details

Date Saturday  6/26/2021
End Date Sunday  6/27/2021
Group Denver
Event Title ACS High Peak Climb Team B-4 Coxcomb Peak- North Face
Start Time 7:00 AM
Status Approved
Leader Jamie Simpson
Co-Leader Katie Hendrickson
Member Price Free
Available Participants 3
Type Trip
Trip Type Hike
Pace
Classification Difficult DII
Trail Mileage 8
Elevation Gain 3989
Driving Distance 250

Location

Coxcomb Peak, Cimarron Range, San Juans

We will be ascending Coxcomb Peak via the standard SW Chimney and descending via the North Face. An optional climb of Redcliff (bicentennial) can be done after the rappel of Coxcomb’s North Face.



For more info Contact

Jamie Simpson- 303-669-6032



Details

Trip Plan

On Saturday (6/24) meet at the 2wd trailhead at 3pm. There is very limited 2wd parking, so hopefully the group can limit the number of cars left at the 2wd trailhead. Gear can be transferred to 4wd vehicles to drive approximately another 1.5 miles to the 4wd trailhead. See above for coordinates. Note: It may be possible for 2wd cars to proceed past the 2wd trailhead depending on the road condition and the flow rate at the stream crossing. The group will set up camp as close to the 4wd trailhead as feasible.



Sunday (6/25) we will be ready to leave camp no later than 4am (time change possible given updated weather forecast). We will ascend the Wetterhorn Basin trail for approximately 3 miles to a saddle at 12,500 feet. At this point we have two options:

Option 1: Attempt to contour while holding as elevation as close as possible on talus/scree until reaching Coxcombs South Rib where we will continue to ascend the peak.

Option 2: Stay on trail, but lose elevation until reaching a grassy slope near the South Rib and then ascend to continue the climb.

After reaching the South Rib, we will ascend to the base of the Summit Cliffs where the technical climbing will begin. At this point we should have all climbing gear on (harness/helmet/ATC/prussik/ect) if not done before.



From the base of the Summit Cliffs, there are 3 portions of the route to reach the summit ridge. Each of these will be assessed for how to proceed (Instructors belay students up/no protection used/ect). See the below trip reports for pictures of these areas.

P1: Class 4 Chimney unknown height (but not over 40 feet). (Widely regarded in recent reports as Class 5 and the hardest climbing of the route)

P2: Class 3 Scramble to the Upper chimney

P3: Low Class 5 Upper Chimney approx 40 feet high. This upper chimney is reported to hold ice until July so conditions for continuing the climb will be assessed.



After reaching the summit ridge, scramble toward the summit until reaching the 25 foot notch. Inspect the anchors, rappel into the notch, pull the rope and scramble up the other side and arrive at the airy summit.



The rappel off the North Face is approximately 170 feet long, and mostly free hanging. We will inspect the rap station, set the double rope rappel and rap down. The area around the rap station is reported to be very loose, so setting a personal anchor is critical. Note: to sling the whole main anchor rock for this rappel requires a minimum of 35 feet of webbing. I’ve read of two reports of ropes getting caught during the pull, so a clean EDK/Fishermans is imperative.



We will hike down talus to the Redcliff-Coxcomb saddle where the next decision point arrives. We can either hike up another 500 feet of grassy tundra to the summit of Redcliff, or we can descend. The descent option is the same either way. Descent 600 feet to the west on talus/scree back to the Wetterhorn Basin Trail, and follow that north to the trailhead.




Notes

You can find the latest updates on COVID-19 programming here.

Please carry a facemask and wear it whenever social distancing cannot be maintained

Practice good hand hygiene - bring your own hand sanitizer.




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