Mountaineering – Disappointment Cleaver Route

From Camp Muir at 10,080 feet, head over to Cathedral Cap or use the steeper but shorter Cadever Gap to access the Ingraham Glacier. Make sure you are roped up while on the Ingraham. Hike up the the flat spot at 11,100 feet that is called Ingraham Flats. From here you will be able to see the Disappointment Cleaver route to the East.

The route heads directly up the 45 degree headwall of the Ingraham Glacier avoiding many small and some huge crevasses. The stomped out route usually follows a switchback pattern, lowering the climbing slope to about 35 to 40 degrees. You will notice some huge seracs towards the west side of the Ingraham Glacier at about 12,500 feet. The route avoids these by cutting up to the east above the Disappointment Cleaver. The crevasses that you pass over at about 13,000 feet are incredibly huge. It makes you want to just stare in amazement.

The upper portion of the climb involves some low angle switchbacks until the summit rim is obtained at 14,100 feet. This section is more about perseverance in the lower oxygen high altitude air. From the crater rim, it is a 20 - 30 minute walk over to Columbia Crest at 14,411 feet.

DIA- Flying to Seattle Fri morning

Paradise TH Fri afternoon