Mountaineering – North Cascades - Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys c2c (car to car)

Trip

Mountaineering – North Cascades - Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys c2c (car to car)

North Cascades - Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys c2c (car to car)

  • Sat, Jul 8, 2023
  • Denver
  • Mountaineering
  • Intermediate Alpine Climb
  • Adults
  • Difficult D
  • Difficult
  • Mileage: 15.0 mi
  • Elevation Gain: 7,500 ft
  • High Point Elevation: 9,131 ft

Prior experience traveling on a rope team on a glacier is required. As well as formal glacier travel/crevasse rescue training through CMC's HAMS (High Altitude Mountaineering School)/Glacier Travel School programs, or equivalent schooling is required to participate in this trip.

Start time: 1AM PT

TH location: 48.85006, -121.68627

CalTopo: https://caltopo.com/m/81E31

Fisher Chimneys: https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/washington/mount-shuksan-via-the-fischer-chimneys-approach?search=true

Plan:

  • We'll be fast and light (not sacrificing required safety equipment)
  • Stopping to fill up water with a water filter around Lake Anne (1 stove and 1 8oz can of fuel as well in case water is needed on the glacier)
  • Push through the chimneys with the idea to be ahead of other parties that could be doing a single push or parties that camped at Lake Anne
  • At the base of the summit block is where we will make a decision to scramble to the summit or turn around
    • Factors in that decision will be how many parties are ahead of us through the scramble, since that will determine how quickly we either scramble back down or rappel. As well as how the party is feeling and weather.
    • The idea is to be ahead of parties so by the time we are down climbing or rappelling the chimneys we don't have a lot of parties coming up.
Route/Place
Roster
Required Equipment

Required Equipment

Individual required gear

  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Snow picket with steel cable and 1 locking carabiner (or 2 non locking carabiners with a  double length dyneema or nylon runner)
  • Glacier rack
    • 4 prussiks
    • 2 non lockers
    • 4 lockers minimum
    • Pulley with progress capture (Edelrid Spoc/Petzl Micro Traxion)
    • 12ft of cordelette
    • Tibloc (optional, if bringing recommend an oval locking carabiner)
    • ATC with guide mode
    • Rappel extension

Group gear

  • 1 60m 8.7mm dry treated rope (going as a 4 person rope team)
  • 1 stove and 1 8oz can of fuel for emergency boiling of snow
  • 2x20ft tubular webbing and 2 descending rings
Trip Reports