Intermediate Alpine Climb – Pikes Peak - Glen Cove

We were the first vehicle through the gate on the Pikes Peak highway toll road at 9 am.  We used snowshoes for the approach to the climb after parking at the pull-off for Glen Cove.  The start of the the Flying W/Little Pigs couloirs was nice, firm snow in the shade.  As we entered the right couloir, the snow started to soften, as it hadn't really consolidated much.  We set a gear belay just below the first rock pitch, where a large chock stone has to be passed.  There are right and left options, and I chose the left, as it seemed to have decent foot and tool placements, despite being somewhat of an overhanging surmounting of a bulge.  The rock in the gully is mostly friable Pikes Peak granite and not very confidence-inspiring, requiring thoughtful climbing and protection placement.  The climb continues up moderately steep snow to about 45 degrees, with three sections of belayed climbing over rocks that are blocking the path upward. We ended up doing 4 pitches of roped/belayed climbing, then cut off to the right face to avoid the soft snow of the upper part of the couloir.  After the last belayed pitch, we unroped and scrambled up the semi-steep rock/snow face in crampons for a few hundred vertical feet until we reached the summit of the ridge.  We then hiked down to the top of the Little Italy couloir and descended.  We were only able to glissade short portions of the steep couloir, as most of it was very firm, even requiring crampons and downclimbing/frontpointing on most of the descent.  Overall a good climb, although not the greatest snow conditions for ascending and the rock quality is certainly challenging, but a good alpine experience in an easily accessible and beautiful setting.