Mount Shuksan

Graduation Hike for Glacier Mountaineering School

From the Lake Ann Campsite, follow a trail toward the lower Curtis Glacier. It switchbacks, crosses two gullys, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the first chimney. Find a clear trail through the chimneys, approximately 1,000 ft of class 3-4 scrambling.

Ascend the first chimney for about 200 ft. Below a difficult step exit right and continue up the ridge. Traverse right across a heather slope, and out onto a small ridge (dry bivy site). Traverse across a large talus field, gaining about 100 ft, to a gully on the far side.

Climb the gully past two class 3-4 steps and short traverses and up a longer, straight section. Traverse for about 70 ft, then turn left up a side gully 100 ft to where the route tops out on the ridge.

Climb easy snow and rock, then climb 150 ft up a slope of steep snow or ice (Winnie's Slide, incorrectly labeled on the map). The lower bivy sites are below Winnie’s and the upper bivy sites require ascending Winnie’s Slide

Cross through the ridge onto the Upper Curtis Glacier. Ascend/traverse the glacier, working left around crevasses. Turn right (south) and make a descending traverse toward Hell's Highway (incorrectly labeled "The Hourglass" on the map). Ascend Hell's Highway then the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid, which can be climbed by the right skyline or by a gully up the center (exposed class 4, 600 ft).

Descend along the northwest edge of the Upper Curtis Glacier until you can cross to the White Salmon at about 7050 ft. Descend a short steep slope at the top of the White Salmon then keep left, following below the crest of Shuksan Arm on easy rock and snow for a short distance until you come to a place where you can cross to the south side of the ridge. Pick up a clear trail and descend 150 ft, turn right, traverse, descend another several hundred feet, finally coming out at the edge of a talus slope. Cross the slope, losing no more than 100 ft, and pick up the clear trail as it crosses heather slopes. The trail descends onto a ridge then turns right and enters a gully. At the bottom of the gully, pick up the trail to Lake Ann.

• Suitable Activities: Mountaineering
• Seasons: June, July, August
• Weather: View weather forecast
• Avalanche Terrain Rating Challenging

• Difficulty: Difficult D
• Length: 15.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 6,800 ft
• High Point: 9,131 ft

• Land Manager: U.S. Forest Service
• Parking Permit Required: USFS Permits & Passes
• Recommended Party Size: 5
• Maximum Party Size: 5
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 5