Scramble – Mount Meeker via the Iron Gates or the Loft

Participants must contact the trip leader for approval prior to registering

This is a high-altitude, Class 3 alpine scramble involving off-trail travel, steep and loose terrain, sustained exposure, and sections of significant consequence. Participants must be comfortable traveling on exposed ridgelines with loose footing, scrambling over rock, and navigating rugged alpine terrain at elevations approaching 14,000 ft.

While no technical climbing is required, we will carry a 30 to 40-meter rope to establish a fixed handline across the Knife Edge Traverse, and potentially on other exposed sections of the ridge if conditions warrant. For this reason, all participants will be required to bring:

• A climbing harness

• A prusik loop (for self-belay on the fixed line)

• A locking carabiner

The Knife Edge itself is approximately 125–150 feet long, with significant exposure on both sides and drop-offs exceeding 1,000 feet. Following the Knife Edge, the ridge continues with Class 3 scrambling and sustained exposure, requiring steady footwork and confident movement in exposed terrain.

The use of a fixed handline is optional for experienced scramblers but highly recommended for those who are less comfortable with high exposure. The group will review safety protocols and proper use of the fixed line prior to reaching this section.

This route also includes:

• An ascent through the Iron Gates Couloir, consisting of steep, loose talus where rockfall is possible — helmets are mandatory.

• A descent via the Loft Route, which presents Class 2–3 downclimbing, loose rock, and route-finding challenges.

Technical Highlights & Skills Required

• Prior experience with Class 2–3 scrambling and exposed terrain.

• Comfort with exposure and heights, both on the Knife Edge and the sustained ridge that follows.

• Good physical fitness for approximately 4,500 ft of elevation gain and a long, strenuous day at high altitude.

• Willingness and ability to safely use a fixed handline system, including self-belay with a prusik.

• Familiarity with basic route-finding concepts is helpful, though much of the route will be led by the trip leader.

Seasonal Considerations

This trip is scheduled for September 27th, when early winter conditions may be present in the high country. Snow, ice, strong winds, or rapidly changing weather could significantly increase the technical difficulty of this route or make it unsafe.

The weather for this trip will be closely monitored in the days leading up to the outing. Final decisions regarding trip modifications, postponement, or cancellation will be made based on the most up-to-date forecasts, recent conditions, and overall safety considerations. Participants should understand that mountain weather is often unpredictable, and flexibility is essential.

To be properly prepared, all participants must bring appropriate cold-weather clothing, including gloves, hats, and traction devices (such as microspikes), if conditions require them. An early alpine start is mandatory to minimize exposure to weather hazards and reduce the risk of encountering deteriorating conditions during the climb.

TBD